Sunday, July 23, 2017

Saturday Market Day




It's Market Day in Le Puy and the main streets of the old city are crowded with people--not only local people but hundreds of tourists who have come to visit the historic city. The early morning fog did not deter anyone. If anything, it made the climb up to the city more mystical, more intriguing, more intentional. The coolness of the air is especially refreshing after so many hot days. 

The sights here are colorful in a setting of cobblestone streets and gray plastered buildings with painted wooden shutters. People mill about the countless stands of vegetables, breads, cheeses, meats, sausages, seafoods, honey, liquors, nuts, clothes, soaps, jewelry, antiques, food trucks and roasted chickens. Everything you'd ever want is here. The smell of the cheese stinks, but the lines are long so it must be good. Some things are strange delicacies. And the familiar hot dogs, hamburgers and ribs are missing, but pinch me, this is France!






artisan bread 



food truck 





quail all set for Babette's feast










pigeons and 
their eggs (I think)







green lentils of Le Puy
(a.k.a. French lentils)





goat cheese 






red garlic





distinguishing a product stand with a funny hat





roasted chicken 







saucisson -- 
the spice of life in France



















yellow mushrooms




















As with American farm markets, people are happy and curious. Even children are engaged. Those who want to walk their dogs frequently end up carrying them, at least the small ones, to avoid getting them hurt by the crush of the crowd.

Then there are those who advertise something or another. This morning some very strange-looking, almost medieval-like animators were attracting crowds.

I'd love to see whatever entertainment they offer. It's got to be good.








International Folk Festival -- July 17-23


Malaysian Band marches down street to find a place to perform
On this particular weekend the town is celebrating folk cultures so every day from July 17-23 groups from several different countries perform in the streets. The folk festivals have been held since 2013 and they are most inspiring. These groups share their culture through music, dance and song, and it's really extraordinary to see all these young people perform after they have traveled many miles to be here for the festival. What an opportunity for them--and for the locals and tourists who come to see them. This year's groups are from Malaysia, Macedonia, Serbia, Bolivia and Extremadura (southwest Spain). We saw all but the Bolivian group.


Spanish dancers from Extremadura use their castanets to the approval of the woman in the back


Macedonian band plays romp pah pah

Malaysians provide a dramatic drum and "tambourine" performance

shy boy clings to his mother as they pose with Serbian dancers
It is striking that so much of life here takes place outdoors. Windows of houses and buildings have no screens and they open wide to the outside. People walk everywhere all the time. We walk almost every day and that means we scale a steep hill upwards and downwards. (I'm getting used to it after 2 weeks!) Of course, there are the sidewalk cafés where people sit over a glass of wine or the tiniest cup of espresso and nurse it for hours. 

People aren't afraid of the street nor do they shun or condemn it. I'm sure they don't think about it, but they seem to celebrate the street and use it as a gathering place whether they have business to attend to or not. They certainly guard this kind of life. For example, on November 13, 2015 when gunmen and suicide bombers almost simultaneously hit a concert hall, a major stadium, restaurants and bars in Paris and left 130 people dead and hundreds wounded, a French friend of mine said he and his countrymen were not about to give up on their way of life (meaning life on the street) no matter what.

In the USA we've largely gotten away from this sensibility and retreated instead to our cars and secured our houses. People who "live on the street" are seen as poor people, and loitering is not allowed. Even so, I think one reason why Americans enjoy places like Europe so much is that they encounter an open-air celebration of life that the Italians call "la dolce di non fare niente" (the sweetness of just doing nothing).



Dr. Colleen Long was featured in a September 2014 article in  Psychology Today talking about "la dolce di non fare niente." She says:

"The idea that “doing nothing,” is actually an event in and of itself. The idea that we no longer run on a treadmill of activity from getting the kids ready for school, to brushing our teeth, to conference calls, to picking up kids, fixing dinner, and bed- only to start over again. The idea that our actions day to day become influenced by our instincts and no longer by routines, shoulds, and musts."
It's the Puritan ethic of hard work and avoidance of idleness that gets to us, she says, even though we yearn for a little relaxation. 
The kind of relaxation we are looking for, we all yearn for--does not exist on the side of a volcano, in a rare flower, or on a desolate island far away. That kind of relaxation exists within each of us and is ours for the taking if we’re willing to put in the effort.
La dolce di non fare niente is something we can aspire to in our daily lives. And maybe we could get a little push toward it if we made the street a little more attractive and a little more lively.





Monday, July 17, 2017

Tour de France Festival in Le Puy



The City of Le Puy has taken advantage of the Tour de France cyclists' rest day and created a day off and provided a festival for visitors and townspeople. We joined them amid the craft booths, music, restaurants and loads of people just hanging out in town. 

Occasionally, we would see a cyclist taking the day off--by cycling around town. Ya gotta love them!

Here are some photos of our time at the festival in Le Puy.




There were bands.








Burgers

Cyclists in Baggy Pants










Curious and engaged children 




Local cows to provide local milk 





Local artisan honey



Local ice cream and sorbet. (Noisette is my favorite--it's hazelnut) 










Renaissance queens who will be there for the Bird Festival in September







A pistachio nun in a crêpe habit 




Beautiful swans in the city's central park



T-shirts for sale @ only 12 euros each; sorry they were all sold out before I could get one. C'est dommage!  :(






.....and a lunch of Le Puy green lentil salad with my new colleagues: Sr. Anita, Sr. Line and Sr. Eluiza. A perfect day!!


Sunday, July 16, 2017

And Here They Come -- Tour de France in Le Puy


Bauke Mollema of the Netherlands won his first stage victory here in Le Puy, the end of the 15th stage of the Tour. Mollema is a professional cyclist currently riding for Trek–Segafredo.
According to the travel guidebooks, the French are not much into sports, at least not as much as Americans are. However, they love bicycling (and, of course, soccer). The Tour de France classic is one of the most coveted events of the year and on Sunday, July 16 at 5:30 p.m., Bauke Mollema of the Netherlands pumped his way onto Le Puy's main streets to complete the 15th stage of the tour. 

Le Puy was a welcome place on the Tour and a half-way rest stop of the 23-day tour that started on July 1 in Düsseldorf, Germany. It is slated to end July 23 on the Champs-Élysées in Paris. This was the first time since 2005 that the Tour has come through Le Puy. The very first time the city hosted the Tour was in 1954.



The Tour started out with 198 young men on 22 teams dressed in short, tight pants, colorful corporate-sponsored shirts and matching shoes and crash helmets. The Tour wanders throughout the country, the Alps, the Pyrenees and not all of them are expected to finish. Due to slippery wet roads in the first of 21 stages of the tour, several riders fell off their bikes and 2 riders were knocked out completely. Eight riders withdrew in the 9th stage alone with one and two riders out in many of the other stages. Here is a complete list of the withdrawals. (To see the difficulty of the terrain, scroll down on this site.)   









While the crowd awaited the cyclists' arrival, a caravan of the Tour's sponsors (which sported each team's colors) created much excitement with floats. Cute young women on the floats danced to loud rock music while others threw out promotional gifts to onlookers. I was able to collect three hats, two inflatable pillows, four stir sticks, two Madeleines, two rulers and one box of juice. Pretty good for a rookie gringo! Here are some of my favorite floats.








As one can imagine, security was high with plenty of gendarme troopers and local and national police available to protect the cyclists and control the crowds. Helicopters also flew overhead on the route. Each section of cyclists was accompanied by motorcycle police (and cars with their bike racks). Fortunately, there were no incidents and everyone was loose and happy on this special day.

The motorcycle gendarme below waved a yellow flag and blew a whistle to warn cyclists of the road divide. I don't know how he was able to stay cool in a long-sleeve jacket, gloves and helmet. It was not a hot day, but being out in the sun for a long time could not have been easy. (It certainly wasn't easy for me!) Seeing these committed public servants at a major event like the Tour gave me an appreciation for them for the hard work they must do. 



I'm very pleased to have experienced the Tour de France!


 
 

Saturday, July 15, 2017

Les Aventures de Mme. Beaubien: Bastille Day -- July 14




 
There's nothing like the parades, picnics, fireworks, Sousa marches and BBQ that we experience on the Fourth of July, but the French celebration of Bastille Day on July 14 is quite different.

In LePuy, it was a pretty low-key day. Most stores were closed and traffic was quiet and at a minimum. People took the day as another opportunity for leisure on this long weekend. After all, the Tour de France would be coming soon and people were perhaps saving up their energy and excitement for that. In the evening, however, we were treated to a 30-minute fireworks display near Notre Dame, the church built on top of an ancient volcano that is topped off by a statue of the Blessed Mother. It was your typical fireworks show except that for me, this year, it was in France. 

The real action on this day was in Paris. This year was different in that newly-elected French President Emmanuel Macron entertained newly-elected U.S. President Donald Trump in a show of unity between our nation and France. Macron's invitation to Trump also marked the 100th anniversary of America's entrance into World War I. 



The two-hour parade down the Champs-Élysées included thousands of French troops, 241 horses, 62 airplanes and 29 helicopters all marking the storming of the Bastille military prison in 1789, the turning point in the French Revolution. About 150 U.S. soldiers, airmen, sailors, and Marines (see photo above) dressed in the uniform of the time participated as American aircraft  maintained a flyover the parade route along with the "Patrouille de France" who typically let loose with a dramatic trail red, white and blue signifying the French flag.




As ceremonial as the day was supposed to be, most of the media focused on the leaders' handshakes and Trump's indiscreet and undiplomatic remark about what good shape Macron's wife was. Oh well, we've learned to expect such obsessive concerns on the little things when it comes to the relationship between Trump and the press. 

After the parade and talks, which amounted to five hours between Trump and Macron, the most time Trump has spent with a foreign leader thus far, the president and his wife, Melanie, took off for home and Macron and his wife made their way to Nice to participate in memorial ceremonies of the 86 lives lost last year there when a huge truck sped through a crowd celebrating France's Bastille Day. Fireworks displays there had been banned for this year, and the cannon traditionally fired for Bastille Day was silent. First-responder heroes were recognized with medals and the whole ceremony was somber, low-key and dignified out of respect for the victims of the tragedy. Quite a contrast to the celebratory nature of the day.

However, the evening celebration in Paris featured an impressive concert of classical music performed by the Orchestre National de France, the Choeur de Radio France and the Maîtrise de Radio France who accompanied several well-known international opera singersThe music mostly included arias from famous operas like PagliacciLa BohèmeDon Carlos as well as orchestral pieces like "The Gates of Kiev," "Boléro" and the theme from the film, Chariots of Fire. A large choir of children in white tops and black bottoms backed up by a large choir of adults in formal wear sang a couple pieces. In all, the music was breath-taking with a concluding rendition of a most beautiful national anthem, "La Marseillaise" as all on stage and in the 600,000+ audience sang together (see YouTube below).



Allons enfants de la Patrie,
Le jour de gloire est arrivé !
Contre nous de la tyrannie,
L'étendard sanglant est levé, (bis)
Entendez-vous dans les campagnes
Mugir ces féroces soldats ?
Ils viennent jusque dans vos bras
Égorger vos fils, vos compagnes !
 
Aux armes, citoyens,
Formez vos bataillons,
Marchons, marchons !
Qu'un sang impur
Abreuve nos sillons !

Arise children of the fatherland
The day of glory has arrived
Against us tyranny's
Bloody standard is raised
Listen to the sound in the fields
The howling of these fearsome soldiers
They are coming into our midst
To cut the throats of your sons and consorts


To arms citizens Form your battalions
March, march
Let impure blood
Water our furrows


The evening ended with a climatic 37-minute fireworks display (feu d'artifice) that interacted with the Eiffel Tower accompanied by jazzy recorded music that included "I Love Paris" by Frank Sinatra. C'etait magnifique


  
Sr. Line made three batches of popcorn--with butter--as our staff and the four sisters from New York munched on this treat and witnessed the evening's shows both on TV and outside our front door. It was truly an evening to remember.

 

Thursday, July 13, 2017

Les Aventures de Mme. Beaubien: Tour de France Comes to Le Puy



The 2017 Tour de France, cycling’s Grand Tour classic, is coming through LePuythis weekend and already making a splash as shopkeepers and city leaders have dressed their windows and the city’s streets in anticipation of the event.                                                                                            

 The 3,540 km (2,200 mile) race began in Düsseldorf, Germany on July 1 with 198 riders from 22 teams. It will conclude on the Champs-Élysées in Paris on July 23. Riders will come through historic LePuy July 15-17 with a two-day stop.

Each squad is allowed a maximum of nine riders. Of these, 49 are riding the Tour de France for the first time.The average age of riders in the race is 29.39 years and they come from 32 countries. The Tour de France began in France in 1903 and has been held annually except during World War I and II. Although riders were French originally, they now come from all over the globe. The Tour is a UCI World Tour event, which means that the teams that compete in the race are mostly UCI World Teams with the exception of those teams the organizers invite.

The Tour de France is an annual multiple stage bicycle race primarily held in France,but also in neighboring countries. It was first organized in 1903 to increase sales for the newspaper L'Auto, which is currently run by the Amaury Sport Organisation. The race has been held annuallyexcept during World War I and II. As the Tour gained prominence and popularity, the race was lengthened and its reach began to extend around the globe.

The Tour de France, the Giro d'Italia (begun in 1909) and Vuelta a España (begun in 1935) make up cycling's prestigious, three-week-long Grand Tours. The Tour de France is considered the most prestigious of the three by fans and riders alike. Although the route changes each year, its format remains the same and it always passes through the Pyrenees and the Alps and finishes on the Champs-Élysées in Paris.

 

Wednesday, July 12, 2017

Les Aventures de Mme. Beaubien: Je Suis Arrivee



At long last I have arrived in Le Puy!!

After a 14.5 hour plane ride, I landed in Lyon, France, to be met by the Sisters Line, Eluisa and Anita of the International Centre of the Sisters of St. Joseph. 

My flight was very smooth and on time. The only trouble was getting into Lyon. We experienced bad, overcast clouds and stormy weather and an extremely bumpy ride. We circled the city for about 20 minutes with the possibility that we would have to return to our starting point, London, but the clouds cleared and we arrived safely only half an hour late.

Customs was very long and slow but once I passed through the border (la frontera), I saw the sisters who greeted me with great excitement. Line found a parking space very close to the exit and off we went--only to meet a bouchon (traffic jam)--and several more along the way to LePuy. 

I hadn't eaten since breakfast (10 a.m.) and fortunately by 7 p.m. we were all hungry and stopped for salad and sandwich along the road. 

Finally, we reached the Centre--at 11 p.m. and were greeted with a luminescent full moon and a quiet and cool night. Merveilleux!! We stood outside the Centre for a few minutes to take in the night. As usual, Notre Dame (center) was lit up and so was St. Michael (foreground), which was very eerie seeing it from the back. The lights changed and when it turned blue, it looked like a medieval picture.



Here is front-facing St. Michael, which I haven't yet seen.








As I made ready to sleep under the clear sky of stars, moon and illuminated churches, the cats of the neighborhood called to one another as if in song. I fell asleep in a prone position and slept through the night very comfortably in my new room in France. I have arrived. I am safe. And, I am content.